“Let me quickly introduce myself, So you know why i’ve gone to the trouble of making this book for you!”
“I am Arty Taylor!”
“I’m the creator of this magnificent 51 Tips E-Book “–
“I’m a 22-year-old Fish Keeping enthusiast who has been around the hobby since he was 14”
“And I’ve gone to the trouble of helping YOU to know all the secrets that I have learnt along the way!”
“I’m here to help make you into a better fish keeper – Through learning from the faults of others haha!”
“So that you won’t have to go through them yourself!
This e-book has VIDEO’S and PICTURES and WRITTEN tips, You will enjoy the read!”
“Reading this means you are a SMART person who is researching before they jump into a hobby, reading this will save you time, money, heart ache, disasters, and make the entire experience more enjoyable!”
“You have subscribed to my email and will get other tips as I discover them on our fish keeping journey :]”
“I’ve made this Ebook as SIMPLE as can possibly be!”
“And it is sectioned into easy to swallow chunks as follows!”
Ph Levels –
Heating tanks –
Aerated Water –
Tank Setup – 30 tips
What sort of tank –
Where is it going- When choosing the type of tank you want.
One of the most important things about setting up your aquarium is the location of the tank, there is no point setting up a tank in the basement where you will not even SEE the tank, and there is no point setting it up in a location that is PAINFUL when it comes to water changes, Algae Blooms, And places with fluctuating temperature!
Fish tanks can also go next to your tv, or in the living room where the whole house can interact with the tank!
A very important part of this tip of location, is that you need to have it in a SAFE spot, if you are jumping right in and getting an 8 foot tank or something ridiculously big.
“Putting your tank on the top floor may cause it to crash through to the bottom. Now that, would be a disaster.“
Tank Stands – when it comes to tank setup and the type of tank you are deciding on! it is important to decide where to put your tank as explained in the location tip above, but what is also important, is the type of stand or supporting object your tanks is positioned on!
If you are having a very large tank above 2-3 foot, a specialised stand is worth the investment, because there ARE stories of people’s book cases and tables crushing under the weight of all that water.
“Tank stands should always have a piece
of soft substrate under the glass tank,
most people use Styrofoam or a towel.
This stops cracks and scratched
from forming due to the weight – Link to video here”
Ponds – If you are a person who has some serious back yard space, it is worthy to note that a POND is one of the most flourishing types of ways to keep fish.
The only con to this experience is that ponds are generally less clear when it comes to the water, and the fish are not seen as often as they are in glass tanks.
But it is still something you can consider.
Ponds are a type of fish keeping environment where things get OUT OF CONTROL. I once had the experience of accidentally breeding over 200 Bristle-nose and thousands of guppies! What an exciting accident if you ask me!
Breeding Tanks – Breeding tanks are generally smaller because they only need to house a pair or two of the same type of fish!
For setting up a breeding tank, the main requirements are to have plenty of appropriate materials for the fish of your choice to use as “breeding spots”… These can include caves and hidey holes, or with some specialised fish, a breeding tank for discus as an example actually needs to be large, with a breeding cone.
The tank you would use for breeding Pleco or Bristlenose, Needs to be relatively shallow with lots of pipes and caves for the female to brood the eggs.
Fry Tanks –Fry tanks are the tanks you may be interested in setting up if you want to raise the small fry, by transferring them from the breeding tanks explained above!
Fry tanks are not necessarily made to look beautiful, but more so to just serve as a practical sense, they usually do not have a lot of decoration, gravel or plants, as the tanks needs to be free of distractions when feeding fry, and finding the sneaky little buggers.
filters – 4 Tips
Fry Safe Filters – The filters you would typically use when raising fry are not harsh, or damaging. The typical filter creates a LOT of water movement and can be very difficult for most small fish to live in that environment. The standard filter for raising small delicate fish is a sponge filter. Sponge filters are a sponge, and a tube, with an aerator passing bubbles through the tube causing water to rush out with the air, meaning the water passes through the sponge at the bottom trapping any debris along with it.
over filtering – Over filtering a tank, is a GOOD THING. When purchasing a filter think of this, if the filter has the capacity to filter a tank of 10 gallons. That means the filter will not be efficient past that amount of water, and will be running at full capacity to function. It is suggested to have a filter that runs between 1/2 to 2 times the size of the tank, this allows for over stocking fish if that ever happens “some fish breed out of control” and for if you want to clean your filter, larger filters have several mediums that can be cleaned and replaces, meaning you can do one at a time, stopping your tank from having a disastrous cycle “this basically mean, if all the filters are cleaned at once, there is no bacteria left in the tank to break down natural was from fish, but more of that in a later tip” Basically, invest in a bigger filter than necessary, as you will likely end up buying two down the track. This will save you money, it will keep your tank cleaner, and will reduce any chances of causing a harmful cycles in your tank.
cleaning your filters This is where everything with having filters and fish keeping can go wrong.
Filters contain very beneficial bacteria.
Do not kill this bacteria all at once.”How is bacteria killed” – Why is that a bad thing? 1 – By cleaning the filters in poisonous tap water “chlorine kills your fish AND the beneficial bacteria, do not clean filters in tap water, clean them in a bucket of your tank water.” 2- by cleaning ALL OF YOU FILTERS AT ONCE – Do NOT clean all the medium in your filter at once. by doing this the filter has to restart to bacteria growth process all over again. If you can, clean ONE filter one week/month, and leave the other one, and rotate.
Or, clean one SECTION of your filter, and leave the other “clean the sponge and leave the cotton for example”
sand – Sand is one of the most common substrate for tanks as it generally holds a lot more surface area of bacteria, and helps to hold in a lot of other debris and mess that fish make, when paired with an under gravel filter.
The under gravel filter works quite well with finer gravels as well but is most efficient with sand!
gravel – Gravel generally comes in a lot of different sizes, and some gravels are so large they can be considered rocks. Usually gravel is used in larger tanks because gravel is a lot easier to prepare before going into the tank!
Gravel comes in a lot of colors and shapes so take the time to experiment!
Prep – Prepping sand and gravel is a tedious procedure. But it MUST be done properly to avoid any cloudy water disasters from happening!
hard landscaping “discus” Hardscaping is the style of tank that has little gravel or sand, and generally NO plants. It is generally used in tanks with Discus where the fish are of a more sensitive variety, and it is cleaner to have an open space with this fish who do not interact with the substrate as much as most other fish do!
caves – These are essential to have on the bottom of the tank along with your substrate medium, caves and hidey holes allow for breeding, hiding, and places for the fish to rest.
Caves can be bought, made, or found!
There are endless DIY videos for making caves on youtube!
Blue Light – Blue light is a less distracting type of light for YOU during night time if you are watching television ect. The blue light is also helpful “if it is led” because it does not invite the growth of algae as much as white light.
White Light – White light is fantastic for lighting up the tank and showing off your beautiful little fishies when you are home! White light “if it is the correct amount” is also beneficial for planted tanks growth.
Timers – Timers are a beneficial part of lighting in tanks as it helps control the amount of time that your fish tank is exposed to light, which will in turn, eventually cause horrible algae blooms in your tank… To avoid algae growth in your tank it is suggested to leave your lighting on for a maximum of 6-8 hours a day!
With a timer you can have you tank on for the time you are at home most! And also reduce algae growth in your tank dramatically. Aquarium Lighting Timer Video
plants/deco – 8 Tips
CO2 – If you are seriously interested on having a massively planted tank “live plants” Then it is necessary to understand exactly how CO2 cycles work with planted tanks.
Plants require CO2 just as much as your fish require Oxygen in the tank.
So if you want a ridiculously planted tank like the picture above!
Plant foods – If you are going to continue into planted tanks! It is good to know that there are a lot of supplements out there that can aid in a flourishing planted tank!
You can purchase “plant food” for your aquatic plants that help them grow faster!
Plant food’s can also be used to supplement the CO2 in your tank if you cannot setup a CO2 canister. It requires you to add the plant liquid into the tank 2-3 times a week to supplement the plants with CO2 – Iron and Trace.
plastic – If you are not interested in all the technicalities of the Live Planted aquarium then there is a multitude of plastics available in all pet stores and online!
The more expensive types of plastic plants are Silk and imitate real plants, they also do not damage your fishes fins like some plastic plants can.
lighting requirements – Lighting your plant tanks is an essential part of growing your plants healthily, as you would expect, they are plants. But remember putting plants in direct sunlight will not help, because that will only induce algae growth!Using an effective lighting hood is the best way to cause healthy growth of your planted tank!
aquascaping – Aquascaping is the amazing art of turning your planted tank into an amazing feature of epicness – If you have the time and money this can turn your aquarium into both a Garden, fish tank, sculpture and water feature in your home!
Backdrops – Backdrops are a simple way to add decoration to a tank!
They are generally double-sided planted landscapes that act as a faux planted tank!
and can also help stop sun getting in from the back and sides of a tank!
3D backdrops – A 3D backdrop is something a little more complicated!
Generally people shape out a 3D terrain with Styrofoam in a tank, so that it is the correct size for your tanks dimensions! – And then mold an aquarium safe cement from it, creating “mountains” or “cliffs/ledges” to act as the back of the tank, rather than just a transparent glass back “the glass still stays on of course! the cement backing just sits/mounts against the back of the fish tank!
Drift Wood – Driftwood is a popular addition to tanks as it is a very natural and favoured decoration of most hobbiest’s. The only problem to some drift woods as they can be partial to releasing a tea coloured stain to the water, and boiling that out is an educated process!
Scrapers – Scrapers can be purchased and are generally quite inexpensive! The act of scraping the algae off the tank is helpful as it generally is eating by the fish or is then sucked into the filters of the tank!
Remember to always make sure there are no chips or bends in the scraper as this will cause scratches to the tank which end up being more of a problem that the algae!
Magnetic brushes – Magnetic brushes are also very helpful. It is wise to invest in a larger/stronger brush as this will make the job less tiresome!
Remember to brush in a circular motions as this is the most effective way of removing any algae, it tears it off the glass much easier in a circular motion, much the same way it is suggested to brush our teeth in circular motions for pearly whites!
Also. remember to have the correct brush on the inside, and the felt/soft brush on the outside. I have seen this happen far to many times haha
away from lights – The best way to keep algae away, is prevention.
Do not have your tank in direct sunlight, and reduce your exposure to hood lighting to a maximum of 6-8 hours!
Water Conditions – 21 Tips
If you are in a location where the temperature is not constant all year round. Then it is suggested to use a heater to keep your fish water temperature stable!
The fluctuation of water temperature can cause fish to “catch colds” where they become very susceptible to disease like Ich and White spot.
The most common heater is a submersible heater, and can be bought in stores or online.
Double thermometers – To avoid disasters in your tank from heating! It is handy to always have a 2nd thermometer to analyse the tanks temperature, this way you can be sure the temperature is correct if both thermometers show the same number.
Cool Water – Some fish, like the axolotl, are preferent of Cooler water, this can be achieved with lunch box cooling blocks are frozen water bottles placed into the tanks of axolotl keepers!
Ph Levels –
PH levels are a crucial part of keeping fish, yet is a relatively easy thing to understand and adjust! PH levels are the acidity or alkalinity of the water which and be detrimental to your fish’s health. The PH level will cause burning and suffocation to your pets if they are not at a suitable level!
Siphoning tanks – Siphoning water out of your tanks at regular water changes is generally the best way to prevent water spikes in your fish tank!
water changes – If your tank gets quite very acidic and you do not have any materials to adjust the water “bicarbonate soda” then you will be required to do a drastic water change of at least 50%, re test, and repeat if necessary! Most tap water sources are a relatively stable PH, but check your water source first other wise this water changing step, to alter the PH level, will be redundant!
Nitrogen Cycle – The nitrogen cycle is too much to write in one sitting. It is basically the point at which the filter and the bacteria in the tank have done as much as they can with the waste. and the only way to remove nitrate is by — >
A – Plants to consume the nitrate
B – The nitrate to be removed with a water change!
test kits – There are Test Kits you can purchase to gauge the levels of these chemicals in the tank. The test kits that are liquid tests, rather than paper strips, are much more effective!
DIY siphon/ hot water – If you are looking for a way to get a cheap siphon that will reach anywhere in your apartment, you can buy connectors to attach a siphon to a garden hose for as much length as you could possibly need! Heating the siphon hose in hot water allows the connectors to attach to the hose much easier.
Aeration is important in allowing your fish to breath, yeah, that’s it really.
Stones – The way you create oxygen in a fish tank is by passing air through an air stone that creates minute bubbles for the easy distribution of oxygen directly into the tank.
Stone come in many shapes and sizes and it doesn’t really matter which you choose as long as it works.
Loud Aerator – There is a chance your aerator which creates the air pumping through the stone has a large chance of being noisy, as it vibrates to pass air into the tank.
There are several techniques to stop this nose by Hanging the air pump from the electrical cord, placing onto a soft object like a pillow, or even purchasing a quieter model. There is a chance the O-Rings are faulty if it is EXTREMELY noisy and these can easily be bought from most good pet stores.
Aerator Setups “Many Tanks”, – If you are going to have lot of fish tanks set up, it may be wort the investment to purchase a very high-powered air pump, and running all of your tanks with the same pump, using connectors. Remember to attach the very well, even with glue, because if one of the first connectors comes loose, all of your fish will suffocate. keep a backup aerator just in-case.
Dechlorination – TAP WATER IS POISONOUS TO FISH
Cheap Dechlorinator – The best way to buy dechlorinator is in bulk. Because you will be buying it forever anyway. so make that investment now, because it is a crucial step!
Free Dechlorination- If you are not dealing with a lot of big tanks. Chlorine will naturally evaporate if it is left outside in the sun for a couple of days in open containers!
aloe vera conditioner The best dechlorinators act as a double purpose. The most common is known to coat the fish with a mucous that helps them stay safe and healthy. Aloe vera conditioners seem to do the best job :]
I thank you for taking the time to PREPARE yourself before you get stuck into fish keeping!
I am now working on a 2nd book called “51 tips for choosing your first fish, and caring for them!”‘
To receive this for free the moment i upload this book!
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